Restorative Aromatics: Perfuming 101: Creating fragrance blends for perfumes and skincare products.
Time: Dec 2, 2018 7:00 PM Eastern Time (US and Canada)
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Do you know what the average shelf life of a water-based product with essential oils is before it starts "going bad?" Even if you refrigerate it? THREE DAYS! That is, if you do not use a preservative! I started using Benzylalcohol-DHA which Making Cosmetics describes as "a broad-spectrum preservative blend consisting of benzylalcohol (aromatic alcohol) (87%), dehydroacetic acid (8%) & water (5%) and is an effective alternative to parabens. It is soluble in water, alcohols & glycols." This is the natural preservative that I chose to use in all of my water-based products. That includes things like hydrosols, aloe vera, and other water-based extracts.
I knew you needed to use preservatives in hydrous products, but I didn't know how fast things start to degrade without it and how prone they become to microbial growth. You can also add antioxidants like Vitamin E Oil and Rosemary Antioxidant (which is a plant extract and not an essential oil) to properly ensure your products shelf life, but they do not act as preservatives on their own. I used to make my own foaming hand soap with a simple recipe using distilled water, castile soap, and essential oils -- without any preservatives. Guess what, that all natural soap I made would be floating with microbial growth in a matter of days!
There are preservative calculators that can assist you in figuring out the correct weight to add to your finished products. I like the one from HumbleBee & Me, but you need to keep in mind that it is basing the weight in grams, which is the standard unit of measurement for making topical cosmetic applications. There are also conversion tools available to figure out the total weight in grams if you are using ounces. One ounce roughly equals 28.3495 grams. Most kitchen or lab scales can be adjusted to switch from ounces to grams as well.
There are many FDA regulations in place when it comes to legally selling hydrous products -- those being products that contain any type of water-based ingredient. I started using Sagescript Institute, LLC in Colorado to test my products. Sagescript states, "The FDA does not require any microbiology testing but it is a responsible thing to do to protect your formula and your customer. The FDA does say that a cosmetic should not be adulterated which is interpreted as meaning it should not contain harmful bacteria or fungus." All this means is that if you are making and selling products, you are liable for them. Pro tip: It is also a good idea to get yourself some business and personal liability insurance. The Indie Business Network and The Handcrafter's Soap and Cosmetics Guild offer discounts as a membership benefit.
Each product will cost between $28 and $32 for microbial testing. You package and label your samples and mail them to the lab, they test them, and then send you the report. The whole process can take about 2-3 weeks. It is recommended that even if you are using the same base ingredients, but make a slight variation to the coloring, essential oils, or fragrance oils that you should also have those products tested too -- even though they will most likely yield the same results as the base products that were originally tested.
Preservatives exist for a reason and the natural ones will conform to your personal or philosophical standards that you may adhere to in your product creation process. There are numerous natural preservatives available on the market in the US, UK, and Europe. When in doubt, if it has any water or water-based products in it, use a preservative!
This summer I have been working on my Natural Skincare Formulation Diploma program through the School of Natural Skincare in the UK. It has been an amazing experience in learning more about all the other components of high end botanical skincare products. I already had a solid foundation in my understanding of essential oils for skincare through my aromatherapy certifications, and the additional education has been very enlightening.
Natural skincare provided my formal entrance into the world of aromatherapy. I started making basic skincare products two years ago--which is hard to believe--and really love crafting natural products using essential oils. I have expanded my original practice which was just a day cream, night cream, and undereye roller to include so many wonderful products, which I am working on putting up on my online store.
Suffice it to say, moving to all natural facial and skincare products has really changed my life. Take care of your skin, folks!
On the left, here I am at age 41 without makeup before incorporating natural skincare products into my life, and on the right, here I am at age 43, with no makeup after two years of using natural skincare products. I can't get over how bad my eyes used to look - puffy, red, dark circle, lines and whatnot. At some point last year, I even tried Botox, which didn't really make any noticeable difference. I wish I had photos in the same lighting situation, but I moved last year, so that changed and I also got a new phone.
My current facial care regimen includes:
I'm currently working on a facial/body beauty balm for glowing skin. I don't think that I would use it daily or maybe I would use it combined with the Ultra Restorative Body Lotion.
I love working with natural skincare products and it is one of my primary passions. I cannot stress the importance enough of taking care of your skin, especially with the changes that come with aging. I used to be a "I just wash my face with water" girl and never moisturized... and as you can see in the photos above, what a difference it has made!
Check out my store for more natural skincare and aromatherapy products
I wanted to share the facial cream recipe that I made because it is just that awesome. I am working on my aromatherapist certification and this was a practice recipe. It yields about 12 oz, so it makes A LOT. It is by far my favorite facial cream that I have ever made.
I've been on vacation in Seattle and wanted to give the low down on what essential oils and rollers that I brought with me for the journey. I didn't have to worry too much about sunscreen and sunburn remedies since we were doing anything involving too much time out in the sun.
Since I live on the east coast and there is a three hour time difference (and I suffer from insomnia) packing sleep related oils is crucial. I made a mega sleep roller, which helped relax me during the 6 hour flight and helped keep my sleep schedule mostly normal all things considered. I also brought most of my sleep and relaxtion oils to diffuse at night. I brought the Orb USB diffuser since it is smaller than the Dewdrop diffuser.
I packed the following oils and DIY products:
My daily essential oil routines sometimes change, but I thought that I would go over how I use them on a daily basis.
In the morning, I apply my moisturizer and then do my makeup and get ready for work.
Once I get to work, I use various combinations of essential oils in my diffuser.
I wear different scents mixed with a carrier oil in a roller bottle. My emotional state has been in flux most centered on grief and sadness and some feelings of anxiety. These particular oils provide an uplifting aroma and help get me through the work day.
I have a couple other rollers I keep in my purse for emergency use in case I feel some head tension coming on or need an energy and focus boost to get over and through the late afternoon wall.
I tend to take baths and showers in the evening because I find them relaxing. I use my own DIY foaming body wash, sugar scrubs, and relaxing bath oils. Occasionally, I will switch out my sugar scrub for clay masks or Himalayan Salt Scrubs. I also use my own homemade bath bombs, which reminds me that I need to make another batch soon.
My night time routine is pretty intense. After I take a bath or shower, I apply moisturizer and an under eye serum for dark circles on my face. I also use a belly firming cream on my abdomen and stretch mark cream on my hips, lower abdomen, and thighs.
I am currently on a sleep restriction regime to help with insomnia and find myself puttering around my office/studio doing things until midnight so I usually have my diffuser going with various combinations and have been digging a mixture of mint oils with citrus ones.
Once I am ready for sleep, I diffuse oils that help to promote relaxation and sleep. I use a Sleepy foot rub. Then its lights out for me
Many thanks to all who attended my first Essential Oils Make & Take Workshop focusing on DIY skincare products. I've provided links to the recipes below.
I get asked a lot of questions about what to use for dark circles and lines under and around the eyes. I made a serum over the fall that has worked really well for me. I put it on at night usually after using my night cream first.
I've previously tried numerous eye creams and concealers and nothing worked for me and I was wasting a lot of money. That's when I decided to try out using essential oils with Vitamin E and Sweet Almond Oil. I spent a lot of time complaining about how bad my under eyes looked until I realized that I hadn't complained about it in quite some time.
At the beginning of my journey, I took a selfie as a reference point in October. Apologies for the inconsistent lighting, but I wasn't wearing makeup in the images below. In March, I decided to take an updated selfie with no makeup and was truly surprised by how different my under eyes looked and then took another reference shot last week for comparison. Mind you, I am almost 42 years old, so I am counting this as a win!
Benefits of Essential Oils on the Skin:
One thing that I enjoy about making my own beauty products and skin care products is that I can customize recipes based on skin type. My skin and hair are both oily by nature, so I can choose from several different carrier oils and essential oils that are beneficial for my hair and skin type.
Essential Oils by Skin Type
Carrier Oils: Coconut oil, Sweet Almond oil, Jojoba oil, Hempseed oil, Sunflower oil, and Grapeseed oil.
Essential Oils: Frankincense, German Chamomile, Geranium, Jasmine, Lavender, Lemon, Neroli, Palmarosa, and Rose.
Carrier Oils: Avocado oil, Sweet Almond oil, Olive oil, and Rosehip oil.
Essential Oils: Geranium, Lavender, Roman Chamomile, Sandalwood, Rose, Helichrysum, Neroli, Rosemary, German Chamomile, Frankincense, Myrrh, Palmarosa, and Carrot Seed.
Carrier Oils: Sweet Almond oil, Apricot oil, Jojoba oil, Sunflower oil, Hempseed oil, Tung oil, and Grapeseed oil.
Essential Oils: Tea Tree, Rosemary, Lavender, Neroli, Cedarwood, Carrotseed, Frankincense, Geranium, Myrrh, Patchouli, Rose, and Ylang Ylang.
Carrier Oils: Jojoba Oil, Sesame seed oil, Sweet Almond oil, and Apricot oil.
Essential Oils: Lavender, Geranium, Tea Tree, Sandalwood, Chamomile, Neroli, and Rose.
Carrier Oils: Jojoba oil, Avocado oil, Apricot oil, Sesame seed oil, and Rosehip oil.
Essential Oils: Frankincense, Lavender, Geranium, Sandalwood, Rose, Myrrh, Carrot Seed, Lemon, and Rosemary.
Who doesn't love getting a facial from time to time? Did you know that you can do them at home with all-natural ingredients and essential oils? I didn't either, but I did some research and found a combination of several recipes that work great for doing an at home DIY facial. From start to finish, it will take about an hour to do. Enjoy!
Make sure that you face is washed using a gentle scrub. I like using a sugar scrub, you can use any combination of gentle essential oils for your skin type with the scrub. You will probably want to pull your hair back with a headband so that you don't get stuff in it too.
Then proceed to using a pumpkin enzyme peel to remove dead skin and unclog the pores. The consistency of the pumpkin puree, milk and honey should be thick enough to spread evenly over your skin. Let the peel sit on the face for 15 minutes and then drape a hot/warm washcloth over your face and hold it there so that the enzymes and steam will open your pores.
Use a deep pore cleansing clay mask that cleanses the pores and removes any impurities from skin.
Let the mask set for 15 minutes, but don't let it get crumbly on your face. You may need to adjust the balance of the apple cider vinegar and bentonite clay. Please note that the container and utensils used need to be non-metal because otherwise it will interact with the clay. After 15 minutes, hold the cloth over your face so that the steam will open the pores
A Honey Hydrating Mask after a clay mask allows for the moisturizing properties to better penetrate the skin, since all the impurities have been removed. Allow mask to dry on face for 15 minutes and then rinse it off with cool water.
After using a hydrating mask seal it in with a moisturizer. Use your normal moisturizer and massage it on your face by moving the hands up, never down. You never want to pull at the skin either. Even if you really want to, ignore the urge to squeeze or pop any blemishes.
Owner, Restorative Aromatics and NAHA Certified Aromatherapist Level One. This blog focuses on aromatherapy education and other essential oil related topics.